Colectivos,the what can seem Kamicazzi driven omnibuses that very usefully ply the streets of BA have given me several 'hairy' moments as the coin operated ticket machine that you feed with change to get your journey's ticket consistently rejected my attempts to use my centivos (small change). The queues behind me kept building up with the bus hurtling on its way with the driver muttering as he had to reset the machine time and again whilst in full flight. Today on a quiet trip to the bird reserve I discovered my change included a Brazilian '25 centivos' coin. Eurika!
Another 'eye watering' discovery was that mains water pressure here can cause the centre jet on the bidet to easily hit the 9'0" ceiling of our bathroom! It is not only the colectivos than can have standing room only.
Sunday's trip to San Telmo street market saw me finally succumb to a very tacky tango hat that I'm sure will never be worn in anger or even when dancing tango.
A second visit to the Rio Plata side nature reserve gave a grandstand view of a vast container ship manouvring into dock as well sightings of the very substantial lizards that wandered out from the path side undergrowth.These have the appearance of small crocodiles about 2ft long with similar scaley body.
Irene here: as we journeyed on this almost 3 hour walk the temperature escalated as did the humidity, the whole area was in full sun, the trees giving very little shade. Hat, sips of water etc. gave little respite, when I suddenly remembered my M & S black umbrella rolled up in my bag. Joy - out it came and did the trick, although I did wish it was a gaudy flowery version. A really good looking Argentinian man, just the right age, walking towards me raised his eyebrows and gave me a look. This could certainly not be confused with the Argentinian "come on" I had been warned about. Much more a case of "Mad dogs and English women .............etc.
The evening saw us at a day delayed visit to the Theloneous Jazz Club which was surprisingly good also provided us with a first class supper of Argentinian cheeses, olives and for me two very welcome bottles of Guinness. A real change from tango music and wine.
After midnight saw us hurtling back home in one of the black and yellow taxis accompanied with animated conversation, in Argentinian Spanish about the merits of Maridona's 'hand of God' goal against England and the attributes of Margaret Thatcher; the cabbie looking over his shoulder at us whilst still driving erraticly at alarming speed.
Irene was quiet most of the journey; I think in silent prayer with eyes tight shut, with a strong grip on the seat in front. This is a frequent scenario made all the worse by lack of seat belts, either both parts or if you are lucky to find the long strap you thank God and immediately put it over your shoulder and hold it there for the entire journey in the belief that it will save you in the imminent head on collision. The relief at alighting unscathed cannot be underestimated.
We both slept well last night!
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